Posted on Thursday 1 February 2007
Central Michel Richard
1001 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20004 — 202-626-0015
http://centralmichelrichard.com/
For those of you unfamiliar with Central, it is the new offering by DC gastronomical savant , Michel Richard, who’s Citronelle has been an institution for as long as I can remember. Central is a happy medium between French bistro and American café. The prices are reasonable for a Richard establishment with most dishes priced around the 20-25 dollar range. The food however was sort of hit or miss. Some of the dishes were superlative. The French onion soup in particular was some of the best we have ever had. I would refer you to Les Halles for some phenomenal onion soup but now, I feel that I may have been swayed to list a new king of the French onion. This is a theme here at Central though. The French based dishes shine through while the American ones seem a little bit muddled as if stuck somewhere in the middle of the Atlantic – neither here nor there. The friend chicken was one such dish. There was sort of an uproar at the table when the fried chicken was tasted. Now we are of the opinion that fried chicken should be just that: fried. The chicken at Central however starts off it’s cooked life as a product of brining and then is lightly breaded and fried. This leaves the crust quite mushy and not consistent with the generally accepted definition of fried chicken. The steamed mussels were also underperforming. They were served lukewarm at best even when requested piping hot.
All in all I would recommend their more-frenchier-than-not dishes over their American attempts. The steak frites was very tasty. It was tender and succulent, the juices were free flowing and the fries are probably some of the best fries in town. The fries are nice and crunchy yet their insides and nice and soft and very potato-ey. Like any self respecting French bistro the attention paid to and the quality of their steaks and fries is very impressive. Among their more American options, The Connoisseur especially liked the short ribs; deeming them to be “tender, succulent and just plain good.” Desserts are consistent with Richards reputation and are done well. Even in light of some of their gastronomic shortfalls I would readily recommend Central for an outing. Please be warned, however, that they are not accepting lunch reservations for the immediate future due to some issues with the construction. For nice affordable French food in downtown, Central is tough to beat. If you have not been to Citronelle please do not consider Central to be a substitute, it is merely a stopgap and should be viewed as such. The dishes that they do well are done very well, but unfortunately their other dishes do not truly deserve the Michel Richard name. But they are new, and perhaps they will evolve.

Price: $$$




